Yunnan's Honghe: Historic towns, ethnic nationalities and a unique cross-border railway

Gejiu Lake and chairlift up Laoyin Mountain 2000.  [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Gejiu today is spread around an extensive lake in a seemingly crater - like depression close to the top of a mountain. Part of its beauty, ironically, originated from a combination of exceptionally heavy rainfall and a mining accident in the early 1950's. Water built up in the mines with groundwater rising to the surface, flooding much of the city's narrow valley. The consequence is today's attractive city center scenic spot!

It was fascinating spending a few days in Gejiu, walking around the lake; discovering the former French-style railway station; watching from a waterside square people from various ethnic groups dance or exercise to music from Yunnan's Xishuangbanna. Unlike Hekou, there were noticeably few bicycles because of the hilly terrain. Pleasant downtown garden cafes proved ideal for evening relaxation over cold drinks and spicy potatoes while local life in its varied colorful styles passed by.

From the lake, the view included Laoyin Mountain and it felt inviting. A chairlift offered easy access to the summit but walking was my preference. A paved trail led initially to the restored Mt Baohua Temple, dating from 1670. It was a lovely spot to relax while looking over its yellow-tiled roofs towards the forested slopes beyond. It was so peaceful to walk alone on this path for an hour in beautiful sunshine. The city and its lake were spread below and increasingly impressive the higher I climbed. Close to the summit plateau a restaurant provided a comfortable rest, cold drinks and more stunning views of the surrounding landscape. Eventually heading back down I reached the lake just as the setting sun started to bathe the slopes in a reddish orange glow. A perfect ending to my visit.